Venison, A Most Unusual Butcher, and the Fate of Roadkill
It’s not hard now to find venison in markets or to be ordered online, but when I moved to New England thirty years ago, it was not sold in supermarkets.
When I set out to source authentic venison for a culinary project, my journey took an unexpected twist.
From long before recorded history, there is evidence that the indigenous people of the eastern North American continent skirted winter starvation with the meat of white-tailed deer. In the seventeenth century, fresh off the boat in what was literally their New World, European colonists floundered until they learned from local tribes — who were perhaps privately rolling their eyes – that they had to clear fields by burning them, to allow new growth that would attract wildlife and improve hunting. And hunting was essential for survival. Deer skins were tanned and used anywhere leather was needed, as well as for rugs, clothing, shoes, and shoelaces. Bones were made into tools, buttons, and needles. The colonists used the meat in ways both new and familiar. It was dried, stewed, potted, made into sausages, put into pies, or mixed with fat and dried berries, as the natives did, to become the original energy snack: pemmican.
Today, deer are ranched – raised free-range to forage in natural habitats – or farmed – domestically raised on a controlled diet. Venison, a lean red meat with half the calories and a sixth of the saturated fats of a similarly sized cut of beef, is similar to beef, but with a heartier and richer umami flavor. Deer are also hunted; in New England the hunting season is primarily the month of November.
A Most Unusual Butcher
It’s not hard now to find venison in markets or to be ordered online, but when I moved to New England thirty years ago, it was not sold in supermarkets. When I was assigned a venison recipe to test for the New York Times I went to the nearest supermarket to consult with the head butcher. He was a kind older man named Dennis who had a thick Irish accent. Dennis explained that venison was not available for sale there. Seeing my disappointment, he said that his son was a hunter and that they had a freezer full of venison at home; he’d be happy to bring some to work the next day. I offered to pay and he firmly declined — it wasn’t ethical or legal for him to sell the meat. Uncertain, I asked, “But don’t you want the meat for yourself?” Oh no, he said, he’s a vegetarian.
Ah, okay. Then it registered. But wait, you’re a butcher. Well, he said, he grew up on a farm in Ireland. They raised and butchered animals. It happened that when he was a child, a pig had not been properly prepared before it was cooked and served to the family. It made him ill and he swore off all meats. Fine, his parents said, eat as you wish but you will certainly not neglect your chores. So he willingly learned and practiced the trade of butchering. In Ireland, and then in the United States, he was employed as a butcher. It happened that he was days away from retirement.
The next day I followed instructions, which were a bit cloak-and-dagger. I was told who to ask for in the meat department, and a weighty plain brown package was surreptitiously handed to me. Nervously, I did the rest of my shopping and went home with everything I needed. I didn’t see Dennis again but I think of him often. He was the man with a lifetime career of preparing food he would not eat.
The Fate of Roadkill
No one wants to hit an animal with their car, but it sometimes happens to the most careful drivers. Small animals are quickly eaten by scavengers, but large animals are considered big game. They should be reported, and in many states may be salvaged. Some people salvage roadkill as an ethical source of meat since the animals were not killed for food.
Laws regarding roadkill salvage vary from state to state. Many states require permits either beforehand (though it seems fair to wonder how an “accidental” collision with a large animal can be anticipated) or to be picked up within 24 hours of collection. Some states require tags from law enforcement. In Alaska, roadkill is often distributed through a volunteer-based system for charitable purposes.
In some states it is possible to get on a list for salvaged roadkill like moose and bear in addition to deer. There are specific regulations regarding health and safety measures that must be followed, and the person obtaining the animal will be responsible for its processing. If this interests you, check your state’s regulations.
Venison Recipes
Venison Bourguignon is much like the classic beef bourguignon. It can be made in quantity and frozen.
Smoked Venison Sausage Casserole is a great use for home or purchased smoked venison sausages.
Venison Steaks make a festive meal when pan-fried and sauced with cranberries, honey, wine, and walnuts.
If you hunt, you can harvest your own meats. If you like venison but don’t hunt, you might find a friend who does. Or maybe you’ll find a vegetarian butcher who has plenty of meat to share. 
